Contest : : Identify the Car and Win a BOSCH Wiper Blade Set for your Car #Jammu Only

Contest : : Identify the Car and Win a BOSCH Wiper Blade Set for your Car 

Contest open for Jammu Only

Mahindra First Choice chooses MegaPower Services as Service & Warranty Service Provider in Jammu

We are pleased to inform that Mahindra First Choice (Pre-Owned Car Division of Mahindra Group) has Authorised MegaPower Services, Auth BOSCH Car Service, Jammu to provide Paid Services as authorised under warranty Plans for Pre-Owned Cars sold by them.

Moreover, MegaPower Services is also authorised to undertake warranty services for Pre-Owned Cars Sold by Mahindra First Choice in Jammu.

To give complete peace of mind to the used car buyer, the company has recently launched two new Warranty products named WARRANTYFIRST and CERTIFIRST.

Subject to specific terms & conditions,

WARRANTYFIRST provides Warranty for the major mechanical and electrical components of the car. The concerned components are covered for a period of 12 months or 15,000 km whichever is earlier. The CERTIFIRST Warranty covers the car’s Engine and Transmission for a period of 6 months or 7,500 Km whichever is earlier. 

Both, WARRANTYFIRST and CERTIFIRST come with the facility of 24X7 Road side Assistance across the country. The 24x7 Road Side Assistance, subject to specific terms and conditions, assures the certified used car buyer that should the car break-down, he will be provided assistance.

The products WARRANTYFIRST and CERTIFIRST give tremendous peace of mind to buyers of Certified used cars.

Some Facts about Car AC Service no technician will share with you

Some facts that AC Technician would want you to know about -

Car Ac Service : : 

1. AC Gas R134a when charged in Car AC System needs to be filled according to the capacity of the car. The AC Gas quantity per car varies and is mentioned in weight. 

99% Car AC Technician charges AC Gas by starting the Car Engine and Car AC system and placing the Ac Gas cylinder inverted.

By this method : There is NO WAY you or the AC Technician can check the quantity charged/filled in the Car AC System.

Low charging will provide lower cooling, while excess filling will damage the AC Compressor causing either compressor to seize or leak.

SOLUTION : BOSCH Car AC Service unit has facility to select the quantity of AC Gas to be charged in the Car AC System as per the system's requirement (as per Car Manufacturers specs)

2. Like in older version of two-wheeler, 2-T oil was mixed in Petrol for Engine lubrication, Car AC compressors are also provided lubrication by way of adding Compressor Lubricating Oil with the AC Gas.

99% of the AC Gas technicians donot add Compressor Oil to the AC Gas thus causing AC Compressors to run dry causing permanent damage requiring repacement of AC Compressor.

SOLUTION : BOSCH Car AC Service unit has facility to select the quantity of Compressor Oil to be charged in the Car AC System as per the system's requirement (as per Car Manufacturers specs)

3. If your car does not have Car AC Cabin Filter to protect Cooling Coil from dust, the cooling coil will get blocked after some years.

99% AC Technicians will NOT advise you to get the cooling coil cleaned.

If they do advise to do so, they will NOT remove the blower and the cooling Coil for a complete wash.

Even if you demand complete cleaning after removing the cooling Coil, 99% Car AC Technician will release the AC Gas and recharge fresh AC Gas at extra cost to you (Approx Rs 1,000.00 to Rs. 3,000.00).

It is important to inform you that AC Gas can be recovered, cleaned and recharged at very nominal cost of say Rs. 350.00. You may have to pay additionally for any short fall in the Ac Gas recovered & saved after cleaning.

Solution : See how the AC Coil is Cleaned : : http://megapowerbosch.blogspot.in/2012/03/car-ac-evaporator-cooling-coil-inside.html

BOSCH Car Service : : Promotion

Jai Mata Di : : Happy Navratras from the BOSCH Family

Summer Alert : : Car AC Service & Fitment of AC system on non-AC Cars

Summer Alert :: Car AC

If you have installed a Car AC after buying a non-AC Car (say Maruti, 800, Alto, Santro, etc) be sure that while working of a tight Budget, has your AC fitment Technician short changed you for the following:

1. Has the technician modified the Car Wiring to increase the RPM as soon as the AC is switched on.

2. Has the technician changed th Radiator Fan to AC ratings (say from 80 watts to 120 watts in Maruti 800)

3. The Radiator and AC Condenser gap is sealed properly with foam.

For more details, read on : http://megapowerbosch.blogspot.in/search?q=car+ac

Here I wish to highlight that when you negotiate too much for Car AC Service or Car AC fitment with AC technicians, they tend to short change on above mentioned issues to save costs. Eventually, you are the loser as even after spending a good amount of money, Cool Car will always be a distant dream.

One more Important point:

When you approach a Car AC Technician for AC Gas filling, if the technician does not add Compress Lube Oil to the AC Gas, he will be killing your AC Compressor as the AC Lube oil moves with the AC gas to lubricate the AC Compressor and Oil leaks with the AC Gas. Running Dry AC Compressor will cause friction and failure of the compressor.


Know your Car AC:

The air-conditioning compressor does exactly what its name says -- it compresses refrigerant and sends it to your car's air condenser. The entire process is powered by your engine's drive belt (or belts). The highly pressurized liquid refrigerant converts to a gas and is circulated into tubes where the heat from the gas is quickly released, causing it to cool. The cooled gas then reverts back into liquid form as it returns to the compressor. The cooled gas is used to chill the car's cabin air .

To keep your car's compressor in shape throughout the year, it's recommended that you run the A/C compressor regularly, to keep the system working properly and to extend its longevity. Many cars use the A/C compressor for functions of heating and ventilation in the defrost cycle, too. But if your car doesn't, you should run the compressor for at least 10 minutes each month, even during the winter months.

Air and Refrigerant is manipulated by the AC system. In this the compressor takes refrigerant gas and pressurizes and compresses it thereby making it hot. After this the hog gas moves in the condensing coils where the air is blown by the fan to outer side. The heat is then dispersed where the refrigerant gas settles and cools down to liquid. Refrigerant's flow is controlled by the expansion valve which is turned to cold gas after that. The cool air is then forced to move to the receiver, where it filters the contaminants before moving to the interior of the cor. Then the hot refrigerant returns to the compressor again.

So, if you notice that your car air conditioning system isn't putting out any cold air, or minimal cold air, a dysfunctional or broken compressor could be the culprit (among several other possibilities). Just remember that compressors function at high pressures, involve liquid refrigerant and require special tools to service -- it may be best to leave changing the compressor to an experts.

Air and Refrigerant is manipulated by the AC system. In this the compressor takes refrigerant gas and pressurizes and compresses it thereby making it hot. After this the hog gas moves in the condensing coils where the air is blown by the fan to outer side. The heat is then dispersed where the refrigerant gas settles and cools down to liquid. Refrigerant's flow is controlled by the expansion valve which is turned to cold gas after that. The cool air is then forced to move to the receiver, where it filters the contaminants before moving to the interior of the cor. Then the hot refrigerant returns to the compressor again.

An AC Condenser helps in dissipating the heat. The AC condenser is placed directly behind the grille.

An AC condenser looks like a radiator. This AC condenser is just like a radiator which has tubing or coils and cooling fins inside it. The only difference between a radiator and an AC condenser is that the radiator works for the cooling system of the engine, whereas an AC condenser functions for the interior air conditioning.

If the coil of an air conditioning condenser is kept neat and clean, it will definitely function properly and that too for long time. This is one of the best ways to save your electricity and you can run the central air conditioner effectively. This will also increase the life of the compressor as the compressor will also run cooler. So remember, to clean your AC’s condenser coil once in a year. However, if you stay in some dirt and polluted areas then you have to clean the air conditioning condenser regularly.

The evaporator serves as the heat absorption component. The evaporator provides several functions. Its primary duty is to remove heat from the inside of your vehicle. A secondary benefit is dehumidification. As warmer air travels through the aluminum fins of the cooler evaporator coil, the moisture contained in the air condenses on its surface. Dust and pollen passing through stick to its wet surfaces and drain off to the outside. On humid days you may have seen this as water dripping from the bottom of your vehicle. Rest assured this is perfectly normal.

The ideal temperature of the evaporator is 32° Fahrenheit or 0° Celsius. Refrigerant enters the bottom of the evaporator as a low pressure liquid. The warm air passing through the evaporator fins causes the refrigerant to boil (refrigerants have very low boiling points). As the refrigerant begins to boil, it can absorb large amounts of heat. This heat is then carried off with the refrigerant to the outside of the vehicle. Several other components work in conjunction with the evaporator. As mentioned above, the ideal temperature for an evaporator coil is 32° F. Temperature and pressure regulating devices must be used to control its temperature. While there are many variations of devices used, their main functions are the same; keeping pressure in the evaporator low and keeping the evaporator from freezing; A frozen evaporator coil will not absorb as much heat.

HVAC (heating, ventilation, and air conditioning) refers to technology of indoor or automotive environmental comfort.

R12

R12 is commonly known by its trade name of Freon-12. It is a CFC and has the chemical formula CF2Cl2. Thus each molecule is composed of a single carbon atom with four atoms connected to it; two chlorine atoms and two fluorine atoms. The proper chemical name for this substance is dichlorodifluoromethane.

R12 has a boiling point of -22 F and exhibits low reactivity with common materials such as metals. DuPont introduced it in 1931 for the purposes of refrigeration and also as a propellant for aerosol spray cans and it was in very wide use for many years.

R134a

R134a is a hydrofluorocarbon with the chemical structure CH2FCF3. Its proper name is 1, 1, 1, 2-tetrafluoroethane and each molecule consists of one carbon atom connected to a hydrogen atom, two fluorines and another carbon atom. This second carbon atom connects to three fluorine atoms. Its properties are very similar to R12, including its boiling point of -14.8 F. However, it has very little ozone depletion potential due to the fact that it contains only fluorine which does not participate significantly in ozone destruction.

Know Your Car A/C System : : Must Read for Best Results from your Car AC

Author: S K Gupta
Source : http://www.indiacar.com/infobank/car_ac_part1.htm

Know Your Car A/C System Part - I

It’s that time of the year when Car AC’s are just about being switched in – even in North India. They perhaps never got switched off ‘down south’ of Nagpur! Considering the fact that most motorists face problems with their Car AC’s sooner than later, it’s worthwhile to get the hang of it all – coz ignorance in such matters can cost one dear – in more ways than one.  The System All Car A/C Systems are basically similar, with a cooling capacity of almost 1-1.5 tons (!), in the sense that they essentially comprise: 1) An Engine Driven ‘Compressor’ with an ‘Electro-magnetic’ Clutch. The Compressor Capacity is designated in ‘CCs’, like the Engine. 80 to 120 CCs being the most popular ratings for passenger Cars of the types on our roads. The ‘Refrigerant’ used so far was ‘R-12’ of the ‘CFC’ family of gases but is now progressively replaced by ‘R-134A’, a ‘NON-CFC’, for environmental considerations. 2) A Grill-front mounted ‘Condenser’, cooled either by a common (Radiator) fan or a ’Dedicated’ fan of its own. For example Maruti 800 and Zen/Esteem - respectively. The latter is a superior and hence a more efficient but naturally a more expensive system. 3) This is followed by a ‘Receiver-Drier’, mounted somewhere in the Engine Compartment. Its purpose is to control and ‘Purify’ flow of the Refrigerant to the cooling coil, under various operating conditions. 4) A ‘Cooling Coil’ with a multi-speed Blower mounted in the Passenger Compartment, generally inside the Dashboard. This unit has two additional and vital parts viz. (a) An ‘Expansion Valve’ and (b) a ‘Thermostat’. The latter can be a ‘Bellows’ type like in the pre/EU-I M-800s or ‘Electronic’, as in the Zen/Esteem and some others. All Mpfi Cars today have the Electronic one only. Larger vehicles like the Tata Safari have two such units, one up front and the other at the rear, to cool the entire passenger area effectively. 5) The ‘Expansion Valve’ regulates the quantity of gas flow to the Cooling Coil (also called the ‘Evaporator’), depending upon the ‘Heat Load’ on it and the ‘Thermostat’ prevents ice formation on the cooling coil, which not only affects the cooling efficiency but if allowed to happen, can also damage the system.  How to get the best out of your Car A/C. Let us consider the M-800 System, being most omni-present and ‘Edgy’ by design, by virtue of the Engine itself being < 50Bhp. This exercise can be divided into two parts: (I) Your Garage: (i) It should check whether the System is Healthy, by way of Suction/Discharge Pressures, Internal or External Component Blockages, ‘Pressure equalisation’ times on Switching Off and Cabin Grill Temperature. (ii) On M800 ‘Retrofits’, check whether a 120Watts Radiator Fan is provided, by replacing the ‘Standard’ 80-Watt one. (iii) Ensure proper Foam sealing on all the four sides between the Radiator and the Condenser, between the Exhaust Manifold and the Condenser (behind the Bumper). This is the most neglected area. (iv) Existence of a ‘Heat Shield’ around the Compressor discharge pipe and the Condenser in an M800, as provided in an ‘OE’ fitment. This again is generally thrown away by mechanics right during the first service of a new car, thinking that it serves no useful purpose. If it were so, it won’t be provided by the Manufacturer in the first place and be subsequently priced as an MGP/SGP Spare costing over Rs: 350/-! (v) Whether the Radiator Fan comes on and stays on even when the Radiator Thermo Switch cuts in. Approach in reverse sequence especially for the Retrofits. (vi) Check all parameters of the Engine Tune, such as Idle RPM/CO, FICD RPM (1050), Ignition Timing including satisfactory working of Centrifugal and Vacuum Advance features, Dwell angle and its stability up to 4000RPM, Spark Plug condition and Gap, Air Cleaner/Petrol Filter Cleanliness, Carburetor II Butterfly in good working order, Engine Valve Clearances and Timing (if suspect). (vii) Wheel alignment, Engine Compression/Power balance (if suspect), Radiator/Condenser Cleanliness (inside/out), condition of Radiator Cap/Thermo valve (Change if suspect). In our Dusty conditions, these two have to be pressure washed every 2-months from both sides. (viii) Correctness of Dash Board Temp Gauge vis-a-vis digital thermometer in the Radiator neck, Radiator Fan coming on without A/C around 85*C to 90*C, full closing of Fresh Air Damper in ‘Recirc’ mode and proper alignment in ‘Full Forward’ Mode.   (IV) Yourself: (i) Do read and follow the Owner’s Manual on the Car A/C usage. (ii) Maintain the recommended Tyre pressures. (iii) Always drive in a gear one step lower with A/C on, than what is recommended for normal driving. (iv) Ensure that the ‘Recirc’ flap is always closed and avoid driving in our dusty conditions with Fresh Air flap open, as it deposits dirt on the cooling coil, thus making it less and less efficient. (v) Always get your A/C checked out at a competent and reliable Garage at the beginning of a season. (vi) Check frequently the ‘free-rolling’ of your car, to guard against ‘sticky brakes’. This can be very easily done when coming to a stop, say at traffic lights. Just let go of the brakes when the car is about to stop and shift to neutral. The car should continue to move forward without any noticeable feeling of a ‘drag’. Don’t forget to engage the hand brake when you come to a stop! (vii) Last but not the least, it’s of utmost importance to switch on a Car AC atleast once a week even in Wintertimes and let it cut-off on its Thermostat once or twice – to keep the System internals well lubricated. This is coz the lube oil of an AC System moves along with the AC Gas!  (V) What can go wrong!:  Perhaps the most common ‘complaint’ of most Car Owners is that either the AC is not cooling well enough OR when they use it, the engine over-heats. Here are some tips to equip you against being taken for a ride by who so ever you choose to have it fixed by: i) Not Cooling enough: The main reasons for this, assuming that your System is physically in good shape, can be – a) Under OR over Gas Charge, b) Dirt-clogged front-end AC Condenser, c) Choked ‘Receiver-Drier’, d) Faulty ‘Expansion-Valve’, e) A dirt-clogged ‘Cooling-Coil’, f) Faulty ‘Anti-Frost’ Thermostat on the Cooling Coil, g) Loose AC Compressor Drive Belt OR its faulty ‘Clutch’. ii) Engine Over-heating: Likewise - a) Dirt-Clogged Engine-Radiator, b) Engine ‘Out of Tune’, c) Jammed II-Butterfly - especially in Carb type M800’s, d) Driving in a gear higher than what the engine demands, e) ‘FICD’ engine speed being much higher than recommended, f) Car not ‘free rolling’ enough for whatever reason – as covered above. Conclusion: Once you have got the hang of it as to what makes it tick and keeps it ticking, there is no reason why it should not deliver satisfactory performance even through the peak of our North Indian summer. I have personally driven an M800 through Rajasthan in the month of May with outside temperature being 48*C, Cruising speeds up to 100kph, Cabin Temp. around 25*C, and the Engine Temp. not crossing the halfway mark! In Part–II of this Article to follow, we will see how the next/present generation Car ‘HVAC’ Systems work.  Know Your Car A/C System Part - II Automotive ‘HVAC’ Systems    In Part-I of the above Article, we tried to understand how the ‘Cooling’ or the ‘Refrigerating’ part of the System works. From April 2000 onwards, most Manufacturers have switched over to ‘R134A’ as the ‘Mandatory eco-friendly’ Refrigerant - as opposed to the earlier Ozone-depleting ‘R12’. To an average Car Owner, it should suffice to bear in mind which System his Car has. This is clearly stated in his Owners Manual + suitable ‘stickers’ in the Engine Compartment – such that while ‘topping-up’ no mistakes are made. Suffice to say that ‘R12’ in a ‘R134A’ System can be tolerated to some extent but the other way round is a no-no. This is because the ‘latent heat of evaporation’ of R134A is ‘lower’ than R12 and therefore, R134A systems call for larger front-end Condensers and in-cabin ‘Cooling-Coils’. To make things a little more complicated, most of the present generation Cars nowadays come OE with an ‘HVAC’ – Heating Ventilation and Air Conditioning - System. The major advantage of such a System is that it allows one to choose the most comfortable in-cabin Temperature without having to suffer the suffocating thermostatic ‘dead-band’ of an ‘AC System Only’ in the earlier Cars. Now let’s see how this is achieved and what are its plus/minus points – as far as load on the engine and hence the fuel consumption is concerned. A Typical HVAC FAQ People often wonder or wish to know if there is going to be a difference in Load on the engine/fuel consumption when one keeps the ‘Red to Blue’ Thermostat at max blue or less. For example, what happens when one moves the Thermostat from the coldest to an intermediate position - 1) Does the AC Compressor run continuously or keeps cutting in and out – loading the Engine accordingly. OR 2) Does it run continuously and thus load on engine more? One would ask such a question when failing to notice any difference on the Load on the engine when the AC thermostat is set to less than ‘max-cool’. Or in other words, the AC Comp doesn’t seem to cutout even when one desired less than max cooling from it. So - where does the extra cooling go when the Thermostat is set to low!  Fundamentals of ‘HVAC’ Systems The present day HVAC Systems work this way: The Cooling Coil of the A/C has a Thermostat of a 'fixed' setting of (+) 2-4*C, to prevent its 'frosting'. In the mpfi Cars, it's an Electronic 'Thermistor' type. Therefore, in the 'max cool' setting, it cuts off the Comp whenever the Cooling Coil approaches frosting, depending upon the 'heat load' on the System. 2) In the earlier A/C cars like the M800 which didn't have a Heater also, the Thermostat used to cut off the Comp, resulting in a 'dead band' of about 2*C before it could cut-in again. During this dead band, like in Room A/Cs, there comes in a feeling of suffocation. 3) Therefore in the present generation Cars with HVACs, instead of cutting off the AC Comp altogether and thus get that suffocating feeling, there is a ‘progressive inflow’ of Hot air let in from the Car Heater and mixing it with the Cold air from the A/C Cooling Coil, as you slide the so called the ‘Thermostat’ to 'less cool' positions. A simple diagram below illustrates how this is achieved – 4) Consequently, depending upon the in-cabin thermostat setting below ‘max-cool’, the AC Comp is on most of the time. And whenever the Comp (fixed displacement type) is on, it will lead to the same 'drag' on the Engine. 5) However, with the advancement of Technology, fixed displacement type AC Comps are increasingly getting replaced by 'variable displacement types' on the more expensive Cars (Cielo was the first one to have it), which are able to 'adjust' their 'output' depending upon the total 'system requirements'. Consequently, this results in lower drag on the Engine even when the Comp is on, depending upon the Heat Load demand on it.To sum-up, particularly in the present "B" gr Cars' HVAC Systems having ‘fixed-displacement’ type AC Comps, it's advisable to keep the in-cabin Thermostat on ‘max cool’ setting and bear some of the suffocating feeling if one wishes to get the best possible FE with A/C on - rather than to let the AC Comp run all the time by selecting a lower setting. However, during certain times of the year when the Summer is just setting in or exiting – coupled with the Windscreens’ ‘defrosting’ needs depending on the atmospheric humidity at the same time - it may become inevitable to select an intermediate setting for the best/most comfortable results. In such a situation, the HVAC System would decide for itself as to how much the AC Comp has to work. Afterall, life is meant to be enjoyed and not spent in counting pennies all the time! And before concluding Parts-I and II of these Articles, some FAQs: Q1) What is the best way of putting on the A/C when the car cabin is hot (i.e when the car is under the sun for a long time)? I have heard people say that the windows should be down for sometime with the A/C on? Is this correct? Should the A/C be on or is it just the blower that should be on? A1) Most Owners Handbooks cover this aspect. The idea is to keep the heat load on the Car AC system as low as possible to begin with for 'perceived' faster cooling - by driving out the 'trapped' hot air which can at times be + 20 to 30*C above the ambient temps ! I have personally 'clocked' +60*C inside in N/I peak Summers with +40*C ambient!! The best way to do it is to atleast roll down the 2-front windows, switch on the blower only to max/fresh air mode and drive off for ~ 2-3 mins. Thereafter, roll up the windows, turn the FAD to 'recirc' and sw on the Comp - leaving the blower to max - to be progressively lowered to comfortable speeds - usually 1 or 2 after a while.  Q2) I know of people who put the A/C off and on at intermittent intervals to save on fuel when the car is running/at signals. Is this a good practice? A2) It's out of ignorance. The more you manually sw on/off the Comp - the more you're cutting into its Clutch life. Above all, why sweat at the traffic lights. AC is meant to keep you cool and not sweat. If you choose to have it, use it ! If it has to cut-off per System needs, it'd do on its own!!

One Year Car Care Discount Card with built-in Car Breakdown Assistance Card by MegaPower Jammu for Rs.799.00

We are launching our Car Care Card valid for One Year. A snap shot of the Card is reproduced herebelow:

The USP of this card is that it has a built in MegaPowr Car HelpLine Membership for 1 year within Jammu City) apart from Discount upto 100% on Labour Charges on Various Service and Repair Jobs.